Onam Recipes by Chef Arun Kumar, the author of Feast on a Leaf published by Bloomsbury India
Interview by Rajeshwari Kalyanam during his visit to Trident Hyderabad to curate his popular Onam Sadhya
Chef Arun Kumar has been making waves this season with his exquisite Onam Sadhya at Trident Hyderabad. His latest book published by Bloomsbury – Feast on a Leaf is the toast of the foodies across India who love food from Kerala, especially the Onam Sadhya.
With a journey that spans from the world of journalism and filmmaking to the realm of South Indian cuisine, Chef Kumar’s story is as rich and layered as the dishes he prepares.
Chef Kumar’s career began far from the kitchen. Initially a journalist with the Times of India, he transitioned into film criticism at Filmfare. His passion for storytelling evolved into filmmaking, where he worked on feature films, corporate videos, and long-form documentaries for Discovery and NHK Japan. Despite the demands of his cinematic career, food remained his sanctuary. Cooking served as a stress reliever, a source of peace amidst his hectic schedule. This personal connection to food eventually sparked a new direction in his career.
The turning point came when Kumar participated in a pop-up event in Delhi. At a time when pop-ups were just beginning to gain popularity, he showcased his expertise in South Indian cuisine. The event’s success led to further opportunities, including a collaboration with renowned chef Ritu Dalmia, who encouraged Kumar to choose between his dual passions of filmmaking and food. Kumar chose food, diving deeper into the culinary world.
Kumar’s culinary journey continued with significant milestones, including a partnership with Life by Food and a role as brand chef at Zambar. His work took him beyond India, with branches opening in Abu Dhabi. Seeking greater independence, he then launched a catering unit with a friend, specializing in South Indian cuisine and particularly Onam Sadhyas.
The Onam Sadhya—a traditional Kerala feast—became Kumar’s specialty. Each year, he meticulously prepares this feast for family and friends, adhering to traditional Onam recipes . The Sadhya, served on a banana leaf, is a celebration of seasonal ingredients and is emblematic of the farm-to-table concept. Kumar’s dedication to preserving the authenticity of this dish is evident in his book, Feast on a Leaf, which delves into the intricacies of preparing an authentic Onam Sadhya.
In his interview, Chef Kumar shared insights into the evolution of the Onam Sadhya. Traditionally, the feast included a few essential dishes such as kalan, erisheri, toran, and pulisheri. Over time, regional influences from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka introduced dishes like aviyal and sambar. This adaptation reflects the dynamic nature of Kerala’s culinary traditions.
One significant change in recent years is the increase in the number of dishes served in a Sadhya. Kumar explains that this expansion began with the restaurant sector. As restaurants competed to offer more elaborate spreads, the number of items on the Sadhya grew.
At Trident Hyderabad, Kumar’s Sadhya features a staggering 29 dishes. This number includes traditional items and some variations, such as torans made with a broader range of vegetables, and different types of pulisheri made with ingredients like cucumber and gourd.
Chef Kumar’s approach to enjoying a Sadhya is as thoughtful as his preparation. He advises taking small portions of each dish to appreciate the variety without becoming overwhelmed. The key is moderation, especially with rice and sambar, to avoid filling up too quickly. He also highlights the traditional sequence of serving payasams at the end of the meal, with white payasam made from milk and a brown payasam made from jaggery. This tradition is not just about taste but also reflects Ayurvedic principles, balancing different flavors on the leaf. It’s vegetarian, vegan and healthy
Despite the variations and modern adaptations, Chef Kumar emphasizes that the essence of Onam Sadhya remains rooted in its traditional form. The feast is a reflection of the harvest season and embodies a balance of flavors, textures, and seasonal ingredients. It’s a culinary experience that ties together tradition, culture, and the bounty of the land.
He shares a few recipes that food enthusiasts can try their hand at this Onam season.
Onam Recipes – KALAN
Prep time: 30 mins
Cook time: 15-20 mins
Servings: 4 – 6
Ingredients
Yam: 250g
Raw Banana: 150g (1 – 2)
Coconut: 1 grated (Approx 250g)
Yoghurt/Curd: 300g – 400g
Cumin seeds: 2 teaspoons
Green Chili: 1 – 2
Turmeric powder: 1/2 teaspoon
Salt to taste
For Tempering:
Oil
Mustard Seeds: 1/2 teaspoon
Dried Red Chili: 2 – 3
Curry leaf: Leaves from 1 sprig
Instructions:
1. Peel and cut Yam into 1” cubes. Soak them in turmeric water for 10-15 mins. Wash well in running water (this removes the juice that tends to irritate the throat)
2. Similarly peel and cube the Raw bananas
3.Cook the Yam and Banana separately in enough water. The bananas will cook in about 10 mins and the Yam in 15 – 20 mins
3. Meanwhile whisk the sour Yoghurt well to a smooth consistency
4. Grate the coconut with turmeric, green chilies and cumin seeds to a smooth thick paste, adding water as required.
5. Mix the coconut mixture with the curd and place on a medium flame. Stir continuously for about 5 minutes. The mixture would reach boiling point
6. Add the cooked Yam and Banana. Mix well and cook for a few minutes. Remove from heat
7. Heat oil in a tempering pan. Crackle Mustard seeds, Red Chilies and Curry leaves. Pour over the curry.
Onam Recipes – ERISSERY
Prep time: 15 – 20 mins (Not including the soaking time for the red lobia)
Cook time: 30 – 60 mins (depends on the method used to cook red lobia)
Servings: 4 – 6
Ingredients
Yellow Pumpkin : 250g
Red Lobia/China Bean : 125g
Grated coconut: 250g + 100g
Green Chili: 2-3
Turmeric powder: 1/2 teaspoon
Salt to taste
Oil for tempering
Dry Red Chili: 1-2
Mustard Seeds : 1/2 teaspoon
Curry Leaf: Leaves of 1 sprig
Instructions
1. Skin the pumpkin. Cut it into 1” cubes
2. Cook the pumpkin in enough water, with salt and enough water till well cooked. They should easily crush (20 – 25 mins)
3. While the Pumpkin cooks, prepare the red lobia. For the Red Lobia it is preferable to soak it for a couple of hours. Pressure cook for about 10 mins after pressure or slow cook till well done (30 – 45 mins)
4. Grind 250g of coconut with green chili, a pinch of turmeric and enough water to a coarse paste
5. Dry roast 100g of coconut till brown. Keep aside
6. Mix together the coconut paste, cooked red lobia and pumpkin on a low flame for about 5 minutes. Mash the pumpkin lightly
7. In a tempering pan heat some oil, crackle mustard seeds, dry red chili and curry leaves and pour over the pumpkin mixture
7. The browned coconut can be mixed with the pumpkin mixture or used as a garnish before serving, sprinkling it over the top.
Onam Recipes – BEETROOT THORAN
Prep Time: 10-15 mins
Cooking Time : 15-20 mins
Servings : 4-6
Ingredients:
Beetroot : 250g / 2 medium-sized
Coconut : 1/2 cup grated
Mustard seeds: 1/2 teaspoon
Cumin seeds : 1/2 teaspoon
Urad dal (split black gram) : 1/2 teaspoon
Chana dal (split chickpea lentils): 1/2 teaspoon
Dried red chilies: 1 – 2
A few curry leaves
Oil : 1 tablespoon
Salt to taste
Instructions:
Peel the beetroot and grate or chop into small cubes. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a deep skillet or pan over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter. Then, add cumin seeds, urad dal, chana dal, dried red chilies, and curry leaves. Sauté until the dals turn golden brown.
Add the grated/chopped beetroot to the pan. Add salt to taste. Mix well to combine with the tempered spices.
Cover the pan and cook the beetroot on low to medium heat. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking. Cook for about 10-15 minutes or until the beetroot becomes tender. If it starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, you can sprinkle a little water.
Once the beetroot is cooked, add the grated coconut (save some for garnishing) and mix well.
Just before serving, garnish the Beetroot Thoran with freshly grated coconut on top.
